Le Pre Verre restaurant in Paris

The opening of this new restaurant was, no doubt, one of the events of the year 2003 in the "arrondissement", if not in the Capital. I remember my first visit there two or three days after it opened. Just about ten of us had already been informed of the event. Of course, under the circumstances, I was granted first class service ; more than that, I was pampered, which is never unpleasant. But I could not help feeling sorry for all the people involved in the venture when I saw their beautiful space desperately empty.

Photographs of the restaurant

A few weeks later, as I was passing in the neighborhood, I made a detour through rue Thénard. I was reassured. It was absolutely packed. The grapevine had been effective, and several positive reviews had done the rest. For more than three years now, success has been sustained. Impossible to get in without prior reservation. Besides, of all the restaurants in this book, the "Pré Verre" is definitely the one which attracts most young people (although retirees from the area go there as well).

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What are the reasons behind this sucess ?

First of all, a 'neo-bistro' setting in red and black tones, quite pared down, but very effective. It is impossible not to notice the huge baroque style clock, the many menu slates and the jazz LP jackets covering the walls. And then a relaxed, busy, even noisy atmosphere, with an incredible mix of animated conversations from very diverse customers, of all ages, nationalities and origins. And in the background, an excellent jazz or blues music.

Under Marc's direction (he is the chef's brother), the young and enthusiastic restaurant team vivaciously comments the food cooked by the talentful Philippe Delacourcelle. "He was one of the first French chefs (if not the first) to dare incorporate aromatic and oriental spices into French cuisine". He had opened the "Clos Morillon", a gastronomic restaurant in the 15th arrondissement, in 1984 when returning from Asia where he had lived for several years following his training with the late Bernard Loiseau. Now settled close to the Panthéon, Philippe continues creating original dishes which are both striking and neatly composed, always exciting. His stunning cooking stems from a harmonious blending of flavors, a judicious use of spices without any catching effects. Of course, all his dishes show a remarkable savoir-faire : respect of the produce, precise cooking time, perfect seasoning, subtle dosage of spices. Everything here is original, daring, tasty, simply excellent.

And what about the wines ?

The selection presented on the slate by Marc Delacourcelle is worth the detour : with only one Bordeaux ("for foreigners"), it is very sharp, with some beautiful finds, especially from small vineyards of the South of France, and a wide selection of wines by the glass, by the amount drunk, or by the pitcher, all this served with passionnate comments.

To conclude, this restaurant can no doubt be considered as one of the best in terms of its 'quality-pleasure versus price' in the city. The price of the proposed "menu" is unbeatable.

And don't believe they make it up on the wines : they are just as advantageous. Let's also mention the lunch formula which is almost a steal. (One piece of advice : don't hesitate to add up a dessert).

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This article is published in "Bistronomiques", author : Arthur Deevs, "Editions Minerva"